Even though I have been living in a van and have the freedom to be anywhere, I have spent the majority of my time in Tasmania over the last three years - and as a lover of the outdoors it has so many reasons to be my favourite place in Australia. One of these reasons is its amazing rock climbing scene; a tight-knit community, a wide range of climbing styles and disciplines, and a variety of rock types. When it comes to climbing Tasmania has it all!

As I make new friends and meet people around Australia and across the world, I am often asked what areas I consider must-see (or in this case must-climb) across Tasmania. In some ways this is a tricky question as it is an entire state with a bounty of mountains and coastline, but at the same time I have developed some strong favourites that I am keen to share.

The below crags (climbing areas) work well as a part of a road trip along the east coast, starting with an arrival by ferry in Devonport or by plane into Launceston. They cover a captivating range of climbing style and rock type, as well as including some of the most beautiful and scenic places you may ever climb! Some areas contain bolted sports routes only, others remain solely for trad climbing, and some areas will require you to have knowledge of rappelling. Make sure to climb within your abilities and stay safe.

Location One - Cataract Gorge, Launceston

Happily sitting apart from the rest of Australia, Tasmania (Lutruwita) feels like its own country. Once seemingly forgotten by us “mainlanders”, it is experiencing an influx of visitors as news of its food and arts scene leaks to the world. Even more impressive is Tasmania’s allure to the adventure sports inclined - within its 68,401km2 landmass is a mecca for mountain bikers, climbers, canyoners, and hikers.

Cataract Gorge holds over 900 of routes right in the middle of the city, with amazing views to accompany your climbing. Take your time to learn where each crag in the area is and study the approach - climbs can be a little tricky to locate! With grades starting from 10 all the way up to 30, the climbing is on dolerite which is an abrasive rock with plenty of fun cracks and steep faces. Some of my highlights are Feltham Buttress for a quick play on some easier routes, Duck Reach is a favourite among the locals, Right Man Buttress is great for testing your crack climbing skills, and there are just too many other great areas to mention them all. There are also plenty of boulder problems in the gorge ready to be tackled.

Location Two - Sand River, Buckland

The sports climbers paradise, with over 300 routes and approaches ranging from around 5 to 30 minutes. If you are searching for some lower grades there are great areas here like Panopticon, but there are also plenty of climbs in the medium to hard grades to push yourself on. In total there are routes from grade 10 - 30 here. Camp out the back of Ye Olde Buckland Inn between sending days - this campground has a toilet and you can get a hot meal or a post-send bevvie from the Inn.

Sand River, Buckland

Location Three - Paradiso, Mount Brown

While high ocean swells nearly washed my friends and I away on our Autumn 2021 visit to Paradiso, it will always be an area I recommend due to its great range of grades and fun featured rock. Aim for a day with low humidity to minimise “The Spooge” and keep a close eye on the weather and the swell! Located on the Tasman Peninsula, the 30-45 minute walk to the crag is wonderfully scenic, starting on a well-maintained track along the Mount Brown hiking trail. The sea cliffs and ocean views will take your breath away, and you can see the iconic stacks of Cape Raoul across the bay. Grades start at a 12 that serves as a handy access climb, and reach the high 20s on the main overhanging wall. There are a few accommodation / camping options in the small nearby towns to choose from.

Location Four - The Moai, Tasman Peninsula

In terms of grade and approach, this is the most accessible of the iconic Tasmanian sea stacks. Don’t let that fool you though - it’s still a huge day full of adventure! It’s important to do your research to find out what it takes to get to the climbs and back to the campsite, even better if you can tap into local knowledge or be accompanied by someone who has climbed the Moai before. The best place to stay is at the Fortescue Bay camping area, from which it is about a 7km hike to the cliff top above the Moai.

A day trip to the Moai can reward you with stunning sunrise and sunset views (again, it’s a big day!), exposed and exciting climbing above crashing waves, and the chance to see wildlife including dolphins and seals. A rappel of epic proportions will take you to the base of the Moai, then there are four routes to choose from that will take you to the top, ranging from grade 18 to 24.

Location Five - Whitewater Wall, Freycinet Peninsula

Whitewater Wall is the place I probably talk about the most to anyone who will listen, it is my favourite place in Tasmania - probably my favourite in all of Australia! Located in Freycinet National Park, this stunning crag is positioned directly below the Whitewater Wall campsite, which is the perfect place to stay for maximum sending. There is a drop toilet but no bins so make sure that you can take all rubbish out with you and leave no trace. Scrambling to the bottom of the main wall is a bit of an adventure in itself, then you are treated with world-class sea cliff climbing on granite. Apline (grade 12) is an iconic climb that traverses the wall and is a must-do! The grades on Whitewater Wall itself start from 10 and finish at 19, however if you are looking for something more challenging the other crags accessible from the campsite are also amazing and worth a look if you have the time. If you’re a keen climber there’s a good chance you have heard of Harlequin Buttress, or the exposed route Beowulf.

The travel times between some of these locations are fairly short, meaning that the order in which you visit them can be changed based on weather, conditions, or for any scenic detours. Rest days can easily be added to your road trip to allow time to experience more of the spoils that Tasmania has to offer, from wild spaces to beaches to interesting towns.

There are so many other great climbing areas (and some average ones that can still be worth a visit) across Tasmania so be sure to also do your own research when planning a trip. I would also highly recommend a visit to Beta Park in Launceston - it is a fantastic bouldering gym but also a great place to meet some locals and gather some knowledge and insight for your journey. Happy sending!

Must-haves for the trip

• Access to TheCrag.com or the amazing Climb Tasmania book.

• You will need a car to visit most of these destinations, one with good clearance will guarantee a much shorter approach time.

• Clothing suitable for all possible weather outcomes, even if you’re visiting in Summer. Tassie is a wild place!

• These areas require both sports climbing and trad climbing gear, and some routes are quite long so you will need an appropriate rope length.

• A personal locator beacon is a great idea when climbing in remote locations such as these, as phone service is minimal at many crags in Tasmania.

• Have a read over the Crag Care Tasmania website to learn about ethics, closures and more https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

• Plenty of stoke - get ready to send!

Special Thanks - the photography used in this article includes contributions from Adam J Sanders Photography and Taima Learmont Photography